GowerND11
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We just sold our Minneapolis home, contingent upon inspection.
1908 home with a crawl space (as if you didn't know), and buyers elected to test for Radon.
Anyone know our chances of having radon? And then if so, any advice for installing radon mitigation system? I've seen cost between $500 and $2,500.
We just sold our Minneapolis home, contingent upon inspection.
1908 home with a crawl space (as if you didn't know), and buyers elected to test for Radon.
Anyone know our chances of having radon? And then if so, any advice for installing radon mitigation system? I've seen cost between $500 and $2,500.
I've heard wooden spoons naturally absorb excess levels of Radon.
Only when the bowl is faced downward to facilitate capture.
What's the easiest way to find a stud in plaster walls? I'm trying to not destroy the walls in our 117 y/o home tonight.
Also, how in the hell do I hang pictures on our walls which face the exterior? I'm pretty certain the plaster went right over the brick exterior because when I knock on them they sound solid like concrete.
Any help would be great.
Start from a corner where you know a stud exists. You should find a stud every 16 inches from that point. Run your tape to the general location of where you want to hang a pic, then use a two inch finishing nail to make sure you're on a stud. If it's not precisely on 16 inches, move to the left or the right until you find it. The small holes you make may be concealed with the pic, and if not, it's a quick patch/sand/paint.
You can probably get away with using a drywall screw right into the laths, unless you intend to hang something with considerable weight like your HS g/f.
I'm assuming I need to predrill those holes into the laths?
To the bolded, you have me confused with ACamp. Mine was top heavy in the front, if you catch my drift.
In the middle of inspection for the home we're buying, and looking for a reliable estimate to jack up a deck to repair the footing.
One of the deck footing's has shifted significantly, and it's at like a 15 degree angle. Inspector said it should be fine for use, but it looks bad and could create bigger issues down the road. The ideal fix would be to jack up the deck and re-secure the footing. Jeff should have a picture.
Without getting a quote on it, I can't find any sort of estimate to have someone come jack up the deck and repair the deck. We want to ask the sellers to drop the price by the cost it'd be to fix that.
Is this a $1,000 job? $5,000 job? Any one have any idea?
First question, is the deck free standing or secured to the house? Attached to the house is going to cost more, but I would think a job like that would be $750 - $1,000.
Great question that I wasn't smart enough to observe/ask. I'll find that out. But either way sounds like it's something I should argue for $1,000 off of sale price, nothing outrageous.
First question, is the deck free standing or secured to the house? Attached to the house is going to cost more, but I would think a job like that would be $750 - $1,000.
Respectfully disagree re drywall screws. They can break or chip plaster finishes, even if predrilled.
Suggest Ook Hooks. Very small predrill holes, that even paint can cover.
Come in different strengths, up to 100 lbs each iirc. No stud / lath hit needed.
I'm an art dealer /gallerist and use them for very heavy works and in my own home.
Painting the room add on this weekend but still undecided on flooring... we want something that looks nice enough that is as cheap as humanly possible. Carpet is out for a few different reasons. WE were hoping to go SPC but just the materials are more than I would have guessed. thoughts??
Nice. I'll definitely use these at some point.
What's the subfloor, concrete or wood? Is it perfectly level?
So I actually used your $1,000 estimate, and they took it.
It's a 2002 house, and the Furnace is original, and the AC as installed in 2004. Both units are still in. The house is in excellent shape, other than the deck leg shifting, 5 outlets needing to be grounded (that we estimated at $500), and the furnace and AC being old (while in working in condition).
We asked for $3,500 of closing to be covered after inspection. $1,000 for deck, $1,000 allowance for future AC, $1,000 allowance for future furnace, and $500 for electric. They accepted the $3,500, which we were pumped to see.
To compare, my 1907 home, the buyers asked for $6,800 in repairs, we said we wouldn't go beyond $3,000, and they accepted. So we got rid of a 1907 home, got into a 2002 home, and actually made $500 through inspection.
Feeling really good right now.
Level concrete but has all the left over crap from the previous title... think I decided on cheap laminate... we have title, really nice wood flooring and carpet through the rest of the house but this is gonna be a man cave and sits way off to the side... I found on pe that blends well enough.
Level concrete but has all the left over crap from the previous title... think I decided on cheap laminate... we have title, really nice wood flooring and carpet through the rest of the house but this is gonna be a man cave and sits way off to the side... I found on pe that blends well enough.
So I actually used your $1,000 estimate, and they took it.
It's a 2002 house, and the Furnace is original, and the AC as installed in 2004. Both units are still in. The house is in excellent shape, other than the deck leg shifting, 5 outlets needing to be grounded (that we estimated at $500), and the furnace and AC being old (while in working in condition).
We asked for $3,500 of closing to be covered after inspection. $1,000 for deck, $1,000 allowance for future AC, $1,000 allowance for future furnace, and $500 for electric. They accepted the $3,500, which we were pumped to see.
To compare, my 1907 home, the buyers asked for $6,800 in repairs, we said we wouldn't go beyond $3,000, and they accepted. So we got rid of a 1907 home, got into a 2002 home, and actually made $500 through inspection.
Feeling really good right now.
Any wood workers/kitchen table people on here?
We are looking for a dining room table, and found this guy locally who makes them. We really like the white legged ones he puts together with the dark walnut stain if you flip through the pics. If we go through him, we’ll save ~$1,000 on our dining room table set.
Anyway – I went to visit him yesterday and see the table he has in progress, and it checks out. As beautiful in person as they are in pics. However, he uses pine, which is a soft wood. And I heard this can leave indents, especially if say, you write with a pen on a single sheet of paper on the table. For what it's worth, he puts 5 coats of poly on it, so not sure if that helps prevent the indenting or not.
How big of an issue is this? Any experience with soft wood table? Worth the deal?
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/fuo/d/farmhouse-dining-room-table/6458065317.html
Ask him if he'll use a harder wood like oak or maple and then just pay him the difference in his materials. Pine might be fine for you and your supposed wife. But I would be careful if you somehow impregnate her and have little koons running around la casa de Koon.
Any wood workers/kitchen table people on here?
We are looking for a dining room table, and found this guy locally who makes them. We really like the white legged ones he puts together with the dark walnut stain if you flip through the pics. If we go through him, we’ll save ~$1,000 on our dining room table set.
Anyway – I went to visit him yesterday and see the table he has in progress, and it checks out. As beautiful in person as they are in pics. However, he uses pine, which is a soft wood. And I heard this can leave indents, especially if say, you write with a pen on a single sheet of paper on the table. For what it's worth, he puts 5 coats of poly on it, so not sure if that helps prevent the indenting or not.
How big of an issue is this? Any experience with soft wood table? Worth the deal?
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/fuo/d/farmhouse-dining-room-table/6458065317.html