Projects/Home Improvement Thread

[Irish#1]

Ordered this shower enclosure and pan. The base is made to be tiled.

 

[RDU Irish]

OK - so sealing our crawlspace/basement and discover mold (not the nasty black stuff) in the plenums (junction box that the lines come off of) for the HVAC when they installed vents to condition the crawlspace. Now looking at replacing all of the ductwork - which is fully accessible but damn not cheap. These plenums have that felt looking liner on the inside - seems like a moronic design unless you are looking for a prime breeding ground for shit. With the basement sealed and conditioned - moisture that contributed to the problem should be fixed right? Also what is the point of insulating the new ductwork (recommending metal instead of flex that is currently all over the place) since the space will be conditioned now?

Any HVAC gurus on board to help me get comfortable with where I need to spend my money here? Any chance replacing the plenums is enough since the flex ducts are lined in plastic and (hopefully) not as disgusting?

 

[RDU Irish]

Highly considering saving some dough by having the HVAC guys work out from the blower to the plenums to and I can replace the ducts later if needed. They could pull what is there tighter and cut off the foot or two coming off the plenum which is where I suspect most of the problem is located based on the lining material. As with most flex - poorly installed and sagging all over the place so tightening up would be an efficiency gain to boot. Also important to check the return lines - I suspect there may be leakage that was drawing basement air into the system creating extra moisture to be absorbed in the plenums.

Attic ductwork is a complete disaster as well - as I read up on system design and efficiency I am seeing how much of a complete cluster our upstairs unit is.

 

[Cackalacky]

OK - so sealing our crawlspace/basement and discover mold (not the nasty black stuff) in the plenums (junction box that the lines come off of) for the HVAC when they installed vents to condition the crawlspace. Now looking at replacing all of the ductwork - which is fully accessible but damn not cheap. These plenums have that felt looking liner on the inside - seems like a moronic design unless you are looking for a prime breeding ground for shit. With the basement sealed and conditioned - moisture that contributed to the problem should be fixed right? Also what is the point of insulating the new ductwork (recommending metal instead of flex that is currently all over the place) since the space will be conditioned now?

Any HVAC gurus on board to help me get comfortable with where I need to spend my money here? Any chance replacing the plenums is enough since the flex ducts are lined in plastic and (hopefully) not as disgusting?

Part of my prior consulting jobs was evaluating crawlspaces such as this.
1. regarding the mold... if its small clean it and be done with it or replace the affected piece. If it has the insulation/felt on the inside, get rid of it all IMO. Cant clean that properly or effectively and there is no way to determine the extent of the problem by looks alone. Don't listen to people say they can clean it. They cant. I used to test for it and it never is as clean as they promise.
2. Living where we live, crawl spaces are tough to seal completely. I assume they are wrapping all the structure and walls with heavy plastic and sealing all openings? If so are they going to condition this space? If yes then you dont need insulated ducts as long as the space is conditioned. The HVAC guys should probably install a duct into the space to condition it to a certain degree.

 

[RDU Irish]

Part of my prior consulting jobs was evaluating crawlspaces such as this.
1. regarding the mold... if its small clean it and be done with it or replace the affected piece. If it has the insulation/felt on the inside, get rid of it all IMO. Cant clean that properly or effectively and there is no way to determine the extent of the problem by looks alone. Don't listen to people say they can clean it. They cant. I used to test for it and it never is as clean as they promise.
2. Living where we live, crawl spaces are tough to seal completely. I assume they are wrapping all the structure and walls with heavy plastic and sealing all openings? If so are they going to condition this space? If yes then you dont need insulated ducts as long as the space is conditioned. The HVAC guys should probably install a duct into the space to condition it to a certain degree.

This site is amazing -reps.

Yes - retrenching foundation French drain, gravel over and heavy plastic and insulation up the walls, sealing everything. They install a fan with the drain system such that they circulate air under the plastic and vent to the outside so the plastic isn't just covering crap but crap is not accumulating - supposedly radon remediation system but works to keep mustiness/moisture down. They had poked a vent into each plenum to condition the space which we could look in and see the nasty.

Sounds like we get rid of any felt lined stuff and let the rest ride as far as HVAC work. Should more than cut the bill in half.

 

[Cackalacky]

This site is amazing -reps.

Yes - retrenching foundation French drain, gravel over and heavy plastic and insulation up the walls, sealing everything. They install a fan with the drain system such that they circulate air under the plastic and vent to the outside so the plastic isn't just covering crap but crap is not accumulating - supposedly radon remediation system but works to keep mustiness/moisture down. They had poked a vent into each plenum to condition the space which we could look in and see the nasty.

Sounds like we get rid of any felt lined stuff and let the rest ride as far as HVAC work. Should more than cut the bill in half.

Sounds like a good plan. That system is very effective in crawl spaces here where we have groundwater at like 2 feet below grade and very soggy soils year round.

Definitely consider new ducts throughout. Possibly inquire further into how they handle relative humidity through out the year. Could be a problem of condensation forming on the underside of the floor above if they dont seal it or you keep the house way cooler relative to the crawl space/insulation barrier during summer. Maybe put the fan on a humidistat? Justt spitballing. They should be able to answer that for you.

Also ask about how they allow for termite inspections. This has been an issue for termite inspectors to do their job properly/efficiently and they hate it.

Very cool they are insulating the perimeter walls. Bonus points there.

FTR this is a way more efficient system since most losses in heat pump systems are via duct losses. In your current situation the duct loss dumps cool air into the crawl space causing moisture to develop. This system the air loss will simply be recirculated within the space with no moisture accumulation. Win-win.

If you want to go the extra mile, get a dehumidfier on a humidistat for the crawl space. It should work independently of the air supply. Possibly expensive and possibly something they can add inline as well. That would be primo though.

 

[koonja]

I'm slowly becoming somewhat handy, but wood work is not something I've had to do yet.

I have this piece of cracked crown molding in my livingroom, and want to fix it. Anyone have advice on how to cover this up?

 

[koonja]

Here's the bathroom vanity and floor I put in a couple months ago.

 

[BGIF]

I'm slowly becoming somewhat handy, but wood work is not something I've had to do yet.

I have this piece of cracked crown molding in my livingroom, and want to fix it. Anyone have advice on how to cover this up?

Try and match the color with caulk. Paint over the caulk if it the color doesn't match up.

Look around friend's houses and you'll see the same thing. Joints opening up due to shrinkage are common. We tend to notice it more in our own place than in other's. Human nature.

 

[koonja]

Try and match the color with caulk. Paint over the caulk if it the color doesn't match up.

Look around friend's houses and you'll see the same thing. Joints opening up due to shrinkage are common. We tend to notice it more in our own place than in other's. Human nature.

Thanks BGIF. Seems easy and practical.

 

[wizards8507]

Here's the bathroom vanity and floor I put in a couple months ago.

The switch / outlets stand out. If you're comfortable replacing them, I'd do so with white.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[koonja]

The switch / outlets stand out. If you're comfortable replacing them, I'd do so with white.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

Agree. I have an electrician coming out in 2 weeks and am going to ask him to do this as well. I notice it everytime I go in there.

 

[Cackalacky]

I'm slowly becoming somewhat handy, but wood work is not something I've had to do yet.

I have this piece of cracked crown molding in my livingroom, and want to fix it. Anyone have advice on how to cover this up?

There is also wood putty that you use to fill that crack and paint to match as well.

 

[Irish YJ]

Agree. I have an electrician coming out in 2 weeks and am going to ask him to do this as well. I notice it everytime I go in there.

it's two wires x 2, and 6 screws. Normally I would doubt you Koon, but....

bring it up to code and buy a GFI receptacle.

Is that your but plug in the bath Koon?

 

[Irish YJ]

There is also wood putty that you use to fill that crack and paint to match as well.

agree with Cack. Don't use caulk. Sink a couple finish nails on both sides, and use white wood putty over the nail holes and crack. Will sand to an almost perfect finish. If you use caulk, the caulk will likely shrink, crack, or discolor over time. The putty may crack at some point if you don't work it in well, so use the putty knife to work it in deep, let dry, and then put on a second topical coat.... then sand.

 

[Cackalacky]

agree with Cack. Don't use caulk. Sink a couple finish nails on both sides, and use white wood putty over the nail holes and crack. Will sand to an almost perfect finish. If you use caulk, the caulk will likely shrink, crack, or discolor over time. The putty may crack at some point if you don't work it in well, so use the putty knife to work it in deep, let dry, and then put on a second topical coat.... then sand.

Yes. Google white wood putty. Purchase for less than $5. Follow directions. Good to go.

 

[Irish YJ]

Yes. Google white wood putty. Purchase for less than $5. Follow directions. Good to go.

 

[phgreek]

I'm slowly becoming somewhat handy, but wood work is not something I've had to do yet.

I have this piece of cracked crown molding in my livingroom, and want to fix it. Anyone have advice on how to cover this up?

...why did it crack? You can use any number of methods...but that crack is telling a story. I'd pay attention to that.

If the story is, it was there day 1, and through drying out, it separated...ok...shoot brads in an inch or two from either side of the crack. Plastic wood will take care of the crack...clean out the crack a little, and force it in like grout. leave the filler raised above the surface, and the brad holes you fill, and let it dry for 48 hours...get a contoured HAND sander like a sponge block and sand flush...paint to match. Unless you have the exact same paint, then feather...ie as the brush or roller is depleted of paint, lightly roll/brush a couple feet in either direction so as you move away form the crack the paints blend, and you lessen the risk of eyes being drawn to that spot. Fix is usually good for a number of years, unless something is going on...shifting/settling, etc.

Good luck..

 

[Irish#1]

Agree. I have an electrician coming out in 2 weeks and am going to ask him to do this as well. I notice it everytime I go in there.

Easy peasy Koon. Just remember to flip the breaker off first.

 

[pumpdog20]

Get a membership to Youtube. You'll become a general contractor in no time.

 

[BleedBlueGold]

I evidently suck at Google today. I can't find what I'm looking for so need help here:

Mom-n-law is updating to a "smart house" with Echo, lights, botvac, etc. In search of home security that is compatible with Echo. Features must include: wireless cameras (indoor and outdoor), door/window sensors, touch screen display base for viewing cameras, communicates with smart locks on doors, no subscription service mandatory, communicates with smart smoke detectors.

I'm assuming this exists. Where can I find one?

Edit: Just came across the ADT Pulse system. Aside from the subscription for monitoring, this might be exactly what she's looking for.

 

[RDU Irish]

Sounds like a good plan. That system is very effective in crawl spaces here where we have groundwater at like 2 feet below grade and very soggy soils year round.

Definitely consider new ducts throughout. Possibly inquire further into how they handle relative humidity through out the year. Could be a problem of condensation forming on the underside of the floor above if they dont seal it or you keep the house way cooler relative to the crawl space/insulation barrier during summer. Maybe put the fan on a humidistat? Justt spitballing. They should be able to answer that for you.

Also ask about how they allow for termite inspections. This has been an issue for termite inspectors to do their job properly/efficiently and they hate it.

Very cool they are insulating the perimeter walls. Bonus points there.

FTR this is a way more efficient system since most losses in heat pump systems are via duct losses. In your current situation the duct loss dumps cool air into the crawl space causing moisture to develop. This system the air loss will simply be recirculated within the space with no moisture accumulation. Win-win.

If you want to go the extra mile, get a dehumidfier on a humidistat for the crawl space. It should work independently of the air supply. Possibly expensive and possibly something they can add inline as well. That would be primo though.

They leave three inches open at the top of the wall for easy termite/bug inspection - thankfully everything looks fantastic from that perspective. God knows everything else we have peeled back has had surprises. Damn that insulation was stinky when they pulled it out.

We keep a stand alone dehumidifier down there - guy advised setting it at 65% and shouldn't run that much. Previously ran nearly non-stop but still could tell a difference in the house after we put it in. Temp and humidity b/w basement and first floor should stay pretty close now - will be interesting to see how much the dehumidifier runs. I am more worried about it being way colder below than above with A/C venting down there. House is dug into a hill so most of the basement is below grade - unlike a lot of crawl spaces around here that are mostly above grade. Insulation plus natural insulation should make it hard to be warmer than upstairs - took a pretty hot/humid streak to make that happen before the project.

Super cold spell and floors aren't cold like previously. So much more comfortable in the house, noticed before the cold snap too. I've wanted this since we moved in and wife didn't see the upside - hasn't taken long for her to notice and appreciate it.

Still wrestling with the HVAC issues - Don't want to replace all the ducts if we don't have to - I think the plenums are the main problem with the damn interior lined insulation. If they cut a couple feet off of each duct feed off the plenum to pull them tighter/reduce sag it should be a big improvement. Make a game time decision when you have that down to replace the whole duct if it is bad.

 

[RDU Irish]

I evidently suck at Google today. I can't find what I'm looking for so need help here:

Mom-n-law is updating to a "smart house" with Echo, lights, botvac, etc. In search of home security that is compatible with Echo. Features must include: wireless cameras (indoor and outdoor), door/window sensors, touch screen display base for viewing cameras, communicates with smart locks on doors, no subscription service mandatory, communicates with smart smoke detectors.

I'm assuming this exists. Where can I find one?

Edit: Just came across the ADT Pulse system. Aside from the subscription for monitoring, this might be exactly what she's looking for.

Recent PIA - bought an outdoor smart plug a few months ago, didn't realize it needed its own f-ing router/system or whatever. Get 3 Echos for Christmas - $5 smart plug with each one on Amazon. Set it all up in an hour and no problem. Now can't find a damn outdoor version of that smart plug. Getting rid of the original - no reason this shouldn't be able to integrate like the others.

Wifey also wants cameras and shit. I feel a bit too 1984 about it. Sounds like a lot of people that get these end up turning off the motion notices after getting a hundred notices a day for every leaf that blows by. Doesn't that defeat the purpose?

 

[BleedBlueGold]

Recent PIA - bought an outdoor smart plug a few months ago, didn't realize it needed its own f-ing router/system or whatever. Get 3 Echos for Christmas - $5 smart plug with each one on Amazon. Set it all up in an hour and no problem. Now can't find a damn outdoor version of that smart plug. Getting rid of the original - no reason this shouldn't be able to integrate like the others.

Wifey also wants cameras and shit. I feel a bit too 1984 about it. Sounds like a lot of people that get these end up turning off the motion notices after getting a hundred notices a day for every leaf that blows by. Doesn't that defeat the purpose?

Searching youtube vids now and I came across an action tile website that works with the smart things hub. Add a iWalldock and ipad and the action tile app and so far it seems to be pretty straight forward. But yea, the camera system is still causing me an issue as I can't find anything that just bluntly tells you what to buy and how to hook it up.

Echo, echo dot and the lights were so simple. That's as far as we got though.

 

[RDU Irish]

Agree. I have an electrician coming out in 2 weeks and am going to ask him to do this as well. I notice it everytime I go in there.

If an electrician is coming anyway - line that stuff up and get out of the way. He will have 10 plugs replaced in an hour for what would take you all weekend. We had a guy come for a day and amazing how much he was able to get done. Tons of items that had been on my to-do list for years - well worth it.

 

[RDU Irish]

Searching youtube vids now and I came across an action tile website that works with the smart things hub. Add a iWalldock and ipad and the action tile app and so far it seems to be pretty straight forward. But yea, the camera system is still causing me an issue as I can't find anything that just bluntly tells you what to buy and how to hook it up.

Echo, echo dot and the lights were so simple. That's as far as we got though.

So you have a hub? We just have Alexa and Kasa apps right now - and works but lacks some more robust functionality. For example, I set landscape lights to a scheduled time but cannot have it automatically change the time for sunset.

Don't want to have to get a damn hub and lacking motivation to research what can be done with and without one. Also imagine Alexa app will get better over time - why not wait for the tech to catch up?

 

[BleedBlueGold]

So you have a hub? We just have Alexa and Kasa apps right now - and works but lacks some more robust functionality. For example, I set landscape lights to a scheduled time but cannot have it automatically change the time for sunset.

Don't want to have to get a damn hub and lacking motivation to research what can be done with and without one. Also imagine Alexa app will get better over time - why not wait for the tech to catch up?

No hub at the moment. Like you, trying to do w/o it and just use Alexa. In our search, we keep seeing the Smart Things hub being suggested, so I'm assuming Alexa can't directly control everything and sometimes you need the hub.

For example: If I create a base station (in-wall docked iPad) with the Action Tiles app, it uses the Smart Things hub to control tons of things in the house. So the iPad base station is a one-stop-shop for everything OR I can use voice controls for the Echo for most things. I'm assuming at some point, they will work seamlessly w/o the hub, but because of tech innovation, patents, etc...safe to assume not all third party products will sync. The hub is typically the work around from what I gather.

 

[BleedBlueGold]

Zmodo sensors and camera system w/ their app seems like a good place to start. I don't see a monitoring fee either, which is good. Not sure the compatibility with Alexa, but that's sort of secondary. I know she can lock/unlock doors.

Next item on the list: In-wall, flush-mount bluetooth speakers compatible with Alexa (spotify, pandora). Ideally, it would be cool to set up zones in the house. "Alexa, play music in the living room." Something like that. Idk if that's possible at the moment.

 

[BleedBlueGold]

Answered my own question here: SONOS makes Alexa-compatible speakers and Alexa has a multi-room audio function. Boom.

 

[koonja]

Looking for advice on hardwood floor finishing. I'm listing my home next month, and one of the things to touch up is this section of hardwood that was left unfinished years ago for some reason. It's a small section, probably only 8 square feet and only in this one spot.

I want to sand and finish this so it looks like the rest of the floors. Any guess what kind of wood this is? Does it even matter? The house is built in 1907, and I'm not sure if they're the original hardwood or not.

Wondering if anyone can give me an idea of what kind of wood it is (or if it even matters). My plan is simple - sand it and try to match the polyurethane, guessing honey oak or something light.