Projects/Home Improvement Thread

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koonja

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I have no idea what the permitting rules are in your state, but you're looking to sell this house immediately, right? The first thing a realtor or real estate attorney does here in Connecticut when they see a newly refurbished kitchen/bathroom/basement/fireplace is ask for all of the permit information from the town and proof that the work was done by a licensed professional. DIY is fine when you're going to keep the property but be careful that you don't do anything to jeopardize your ability to sell.

I'm just replacing the vanity/toilet/floor/painting. I am having someone come out to install the new toilet/vanity after the fact who knows what they're doing - not licensed but done it 100 times. It's not a highly skilled job, but it's not something I want to screw up. So I don't think a realtor will care that I replaced the toilet/vanity when it's done right. I had to get a permit for my deck, nothing else, though, not even windows.

Can't believe these MF'ers didn't install a shut off valve.
 

ulukinatme

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I have no idea what the permitting rules are in your state, but you're looking to sell this house immediately, right? The first thing a realtor or real estate attorney does here in Connecticut when they see a newly refurbished kitchen/bathroom/basement/fireplace is ask for all of the permit information from the town and proof that the work was done by a licensed professional. DIY is fine when you're going to keep the property but be careful that you don't do anything to jeopardize your ability to sell.

So what you're saying is I probably shouldn't disclose that I added an outlet to the master closet when I go to sell my house then? :laugh:
 

wizards8507

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So what you're saying is I probably shouldn't disclose that I added an outlet to the master closet when I go to sell my house then? :laugh:
We made the sellers on our house spend $500 on soil sampling for an underground oil tank that was removed 20 years ago.

(And $2,500 to mortar up an ash trap in the fireplace and a few hundred to bolt the deck to the foundation of the house and a few hundred to fill in some chipmunk burrows under the front porch. Buyers are dicks.)
 
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koonja

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New tile was down at noon today. Thinset says allow 24 hours to dry, but any chance I can grout 10 hours later?

If so, this would literally save me a day of the project. Going to a play tonight and will be back at 10pm, and could grout through the night if it's ok to do so.

I realize 24 hours is ideal, but anyone done it in ~8-12 hours later and any concerns?
 

Wild Bill

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New tile was down at noon today. Thinset says allow 24 hours to dry, but any chance I can grout 10 hours later?

If so, this would literally save me a day of the project. Going to a play tonight and will be back at 10pm, and could grout through the night if it's ok to do so.

I realize 24 hours is ideal, but anyone done it in ~8-12 hours later and any concerns?

Use your hands manipulate the last tiles laid to see if there is visible movement. Apply a good amount of pressure but don't go crazy. Don't get it on them if there is movement. You'll dick up the lines and height of the tile. If there is no movement, you can grout. Gently lay a piece of plywood down or something that will distribute weight across a larger surface area and avoid putting all your body weight onto one spot with a hand or knee.
 

Irish#1

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New tile was down at noon today. Thinset says allow 24 hours to dry, but any chance I can grout 10 hours later?

If so, this would literally save me a day of the project. Going to a play tonight and will be back at 10pm, and could grout through the night if it's ok to do so.

I realize 24 hours is ideal, but anyone done it in ~8-12 hours later and any concerns?

Let it set. You may not notice anything immediately, but if you don't let it cure long enough, the wear and tear of walking on it will eventually cause some of the tiles to crack.

Good advice by ulukinatme. Go get you a cheap pex connector that just slides onto the copper and you can turn your water back on. When your ready to finish the plumbing you can pop it off.

BTW......Yes, some old houses have shut offs in the wall. Usually they cut a little panel so you can access them, but the house were remodeling was built in 1883 and it has valves in the wall. Also, set the vanity yourself. That job is easier than the tiling.
 

ACamp1900

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Having new tile and hardwood installed today also...
 

Irish Insanity

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Let it set. Pressure in one side of the tile or the other may make it slope that you don't notice until it's fully set. As opposed to grouting at 10 til 11 sleep for 8 hours, get up, and grout it from 6-7

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk
 

ND87

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New tile was down at noon today. Thinset says allow 24 hours to dry, but any chance I can grout 10 hours later?

If so, this would literally save me a day of the project. Going to a play tonight and will be back at 10pm, and could grout through the night if it's ok to do so.

I realize 24 hours is ideal, but anyone done it in ~8-12 hours later and any concerns?

Wooly - where are you on this? This is literally the deckstain thing all over again.

Koon, if the recipe says to bake the cookies at 350 for 20 minutes, do you pull them out after 10? I love ya, but you've GOT to be kidding with this.
 

zelezo vlk

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It doesn't bother you to play video games while another man takes care of your house?
That depends. Can he wear Mickey Mouse ears while the other guy works?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

wizards8507

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It doesn't bother you to play video games while another man takes care of your house?

Brutal lol
I don't get it. What man is taking care of my house and who is playing video games?

My comment to Camp about being non poor wasn't about hiring a contractor versus DIY, it was about upgrading from linoleum to hardwood and tile.
 
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Irish#1

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I don't get it. What man is taking care of my house and who is playing video games?

My comment to Camp about being non poor wasn't about hiring a contractor versus DIY, it was about upgrading from linoleum to hardwood and tile.

Koon, Did you let it set properly?
 
K

koonja

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Koon, Did you let it set properly?

I resisted the temptation of grouting after ~10 hours, and instead slept on it and grouted in the AM, allowing it ~17 hours to set.

I worked almost around the clock Thursday night through Sunday on it, but it's all done.

New vanity, new medicine cabinet, new mirror, new light fixture, painted walls, new tile floor, new base trim, new vanity and sink.
 
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koonja

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Is there a way to upload photos without using photobucket? I'm using an android.
 

wizards8507

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Not home improvement, but I figure this is as good a thread as any.

Does anyone have experience dealing with insurance companies? My wife was in a collision that required somewhat significant repairs to our rear bumper and now the bumper cover doesn't fit properly over our trailer hitch to the point that we can't open the little door that covers the socket for the trailer wiring. The Dodge dealer says the body shop botched the repair and the repair shop says the Dodge dealer botched the initial installation of the hitch. I don't care who fixes it, I just want it fixed and I don't want to pay for it. Any thoughts?
 

Irish Insanity

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Is there a way to upload photos without using photobucket? I'm using an android.
On my Note 8 and tapatalk I can compose the body of the response and there's an option to simply add a photo from your phone.
4dc540e166eb832fb9edbc285b9c42ac.jpg
 
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BleedBlueGold

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Anyone replaced wooden balusters with the wrought iron ones? Youtube vids make it seem easy enough but I have a billion of them. I'm not sure I have the DIY capabilities to get it done in a reasonable amount of time considering I have a two-year-old running around. Wondering if it's worth the money to have it done by a pro and also get the banisters stained. (I've stripped wood in the past and I absolutely hate it. Did an entire kitchen. Vowed to never do it again.)
 

wizards8507

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Where in a kitchen do you have balusters? I'm having trouble picturing whatever architectural feature you're describing.
 

BleedBlueGold

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Where in a kitchen do you have balusters? I'm having trouble picturing whatever architectural feature you're describing.

That's my bad. The kitchen reference was from a time I stripped all the cabinets and trim to re-stain them a darker color.

In my current house, all of the wood banisters are a cherry-ish/walnut-ish color. We're wanting a dark walnut finish for the banister and replacing all the wood balusters with wrought iron. We have a two-story foyer with cat walk in the front as well as back staircase in the family room. That's a lot of wood to strip, sand, stain. As well as a lot of balusters to swap out. Normally, I'd DIY it. But I have a fearless toddler and I don't really feel safe with open railings. I'm just not sure I want to spend $1000-$2000 to have this done professionally.

So with that said, I'm mainly curious if someone thinks this is a simple enough job that it can be done within a couple days? Or is this a time-consuming project that might take me weeks? I've never dealt with balusters before.


This isn't exact, but it's similar in scale to what I will be doing:

click_PICT0018.jpg
 
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Irish#1

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I'm remodeling the upstairs bathroom. It had one of the old fiberglass tub/shower units in it. I've ripped it out and took out the walls they built out to make it fit. This gives me enough room to put in a tub and a separate shower enclosure. I'm looking around at shower bases that you can tile. Anyone have experience and recommendation with these bases?

I don't want to use the ones that are manufacture matched with the enclosure because they tend to be a little flimsy and aren't made to put tile over.
 

woolybug25

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I'm remodeling the upstairs bathroom. It had one of the old fiberglass tub/shower units in it. I've ripped it out and took out the walls they built out to make it fit. This gives me enough room to put in a tub and a separate shower enclosure. I'm looking around at shower bases that you can tile. Anyone have experience and recommendation with these bases?

I don't want to use the ones that are manufacture matched with the enclosure because they tend to be a little flimsy and aren't made to put tile over.

Build your own base out of lumber and cement board it. It’s cheaper and structurally stronger. Then just tile over the top, but make sure to use a tray for the floor.
 

Wild Bill

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I'm remodeling the upstairs bathroom. It had one of the old fiberglass tub/shower units in it. I've ripped it out and took out the walls they built out to make it fit. This gives me enough room to put in a tub and a separate shower enclosure. I'm looking around at shower bases that you can tile. Anyone have experience and recommendation with these bases?

I don't want to use the ones that are manufacture matched with the enclosure because they tend to be a little flimsy and aren't made to put tile over.

Shower Pans, Bases & Shelves - Tile Redi

I used this in a rehab and it worked out great. The product is very rigid and doesn't flex at all. They give you a mortar mix to use for the tiles that uses an epoxy and it locks the tiles down to the base. Both the base and drain were both really easy to install. The tiles were easy to place and the pitch is perfect. I used a mosaic tile and the pitch is perfect - no issues with drainage.

It's a more expensive than Wooly's suggestion but I have no problem with paying a bit more to make sure it's water tight.
 
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Irish#1

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Thanks gents. My preference is to use a one piece unit so I never have to worry about any leaks.
 
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