Projects/Home Improvement Thread

GowerND11

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You never know with paneling. It was all the rage back in the 70's and early 80's. If they put it up with glue and nails, be prepared to do some damage repair. The glue will rip up the drywall.

Absolutely. I know when my cousin bought her house a few years back it had paneling. We tore it down to reveal nothing. Just studs.
 

Monk

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Couple of things to consider:

- What type of wood are the cabinets? If you have oak, then you have to sand like hell and use a wood filler if you don't want the wood grain to show. Oak has deep grain patterns so if you want a clean look, you'll need to spend time/money to give it that.

- Taking the doors off might be a pain, but you'll get a more even paint distribution if you take them off and use a sprayer in your garage. Plus, you'll eliminate some of the fumes in your kitchen.

I do not know what type of wood they are, but I do not believe they are oak. If the grains show through I don't think that would be the worst thing either. I like the wood look, it is just to much wood look with hardwood floors matching up against a little light wood cabinets from floor to ceiling.

Thanks for the info.
 

Rack Em

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I do not know what type of wood they are, but I do not believe they are oak. If the grains show through I don't think that would be the worst thing either. I like the wood look, it is just to much wood look with hardwood floors matching up against a little light wood cabinets from floor to ceiling.

Thanks for the info.

I dig it. Personally, I'd want to hide the grain. But it does add some character if you leave it in.
 

Rack Em

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You never know with paneling. It was all the rage back in the 70's and early 80's. If they put it up with glue and nails, be prepared to do some damage repair. The glue will rip up the drywall.

You can carefully take paneling off of drywall if you use a heat gun. Still touchy stuff though.
 

Wild Bill

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My Questions:

1. Are the steps they are quoting the appropriate methods to paint cabinets?
2. How important is sanding if they are using a de-glosser to remove the existing finish?
3. Should they have to remove the doors to do the job correctly?
4. Without seeing my kitchen, what is an appropriate price for this kind of work?

On a side note the second contractor listed the de-glosser they will use as well as the enamel (Benjamin Moore) and I believe these to be the proper product to use.

1. Sounds about right.

2. I think it's important for two reasons - it gives you a smoother, better looking finish and it helps the new paint adhere to the surface. The de-glosser will help the paint adhere but cabinets are constantly being touched and slammed shut so you really want a strong bond between the paint and wood.

3. I would make them take the doors off. I'm not an expert painter but I just don't know how anyone could put an even coat of paint on the boxes and doors without separating the two. There's just not enough space to consistently roll the paint on evenly. You'll get a better finish if the doors are removed.

4. Not really sure. Sorry.

If it's in your budget and it's not something you already have, I'd convert drawers and hinges to soft close. It's a nice feature and it prevents wear and tear.
 

Monk

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If it's in your budget and it's not something you already have, I'd convert drawers and hinges to soft close. It's a nice feature and it prevents wear and tear.

I do want to put the soft close hardware on the drawers and hinges as some point. It is a good idea to do it at the same time, I just haven't looked into it yet.
 

Irish#1

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I do want to put the soft close hardware on the drawers and hinges as some point. It is a good idea to do it at the same time, I just haven't looked into it yet.

Do it now otherwise you may never get back to it if you're like me! lol
 

Irish#1

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WB,
Here's a pic of the vinyl plank flooring I put in the RV. Haven't put in the quarter round, but gives you an idea of what it looks like.

MiWzPx4.jpg
 
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koonja

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Has anyone else stained their pressure treated wood sooner than advised? Mine's been up for 3 weeks now, and considering doing it next weekend. It's been very hot in MSP and the wood feels dry. Contractor told me to wait until Fall, but I'd rather not.

Do you really have to wait that long? How soon after installing whatever you installed did you stain it, and how'd it turn out?
 

nsisk157

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Has anyone else stained their pressure treated wood sooner than advised? Mine's been up for 3 weeks now, and considering doing it next weekend. It's been very hot in MSP and the wood feels dry. Contractor told me to wait until Fall, but I'd rather not.

Do you really have to wait that long? How soon after installing whatever you installed did you stain it, and how'd it turn out?

Gotta let the moisture dry out. I'd advise waiting. Rule of thumb is 6 months but you can probably cheat a bit before it gets too cold or the first snow.

rule-of-thumb.gif
 
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woolybug25

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Has anyone else stained their pressure treated wood sooner than advised? Mine's been up for 3 weeks now, and considering doing it next weekend. It's been very hot in MSP and the wood feels dry. Contractor told me to wait until Fall, but I'd rather not.

Do you really have to wait that long? How soon after installing whatever you installed did you stain it, and how'd it turn out?

Prediction: We all tell you not to and then you say, "thanks for the advice guys. I'm gonna stain it this week".
 
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koonja

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Gotta let the moisture dry out. I'd advise waiting. Rule of thumb is 6 months but you can probably cheat a bit before it gets too cold of the first snow.

rule-of-thumb.gif

Thanks. Want to do it next week, but will probably wait til last week I'm July then, which is next time I'd be able to do it. Sucks having the Job sit there unfinished but oh well.
 

IrishLion

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So, I overloaded my washer with towels, they got out of balance during the spin cycle onto one side of the drum, and my washer walked halfway across my basement while I wasn't home.

Now, I have to replace a shredded drive belt and a filed-to-sharp-edges drive pulley.

Fuck that.

I have to go pick up a tool tomorrow that's going to help me keep the belt on the pulley as I feed it on, because trying to stretch this thing around the pulley is no joke.

Just wanted to share.
 

woolybug25

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So, I overloaded my washer with towels, they got out of balance during the spin cycle onto one side of the drum, and my washer walked halfway across my basement while I wasn't home.

Now, I have to replace a shredded drive belt and a filed-to-sharp-edges drive pulley.

Fuck that.

I have to go pick up a tool tomorrow that's going to help me keep the belt on the pulley as I feed it on, because trying to stretch this thing around the pulley is no joke.

Just wanted to share.

That's super easy to do, btw. Surprised you even need a tool other than a screwdriver.
 
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koonja

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One week is six months from when you built it?

One month. I built it June 1st. I do not under stand where you're getting 1 week from.

Enjoy your free time belly aching over other online peoplea stuff. I have shit to do.
 

IrishLion

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That's super easy to do, btw. Surprised you even need a tool other than a screwdriver.

Putting the Pulley back in won't be the problem.

I did a test run at threading the new belt on, and I used a zip tie to keep it in on the Pulley as I rotated the belt on. The problem is that once it takes so much tension, it either jumps off of the Pulley or slips off of the motor.

It's such as an easy thing and I just can't keep the belt on track. It's infuriating haha.
 

Irish#1

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Perfectly, except for me taking the advice and postponing another month. If you can read, I was going to do it one week from today.

Except your still not waiting long enough. It may feel dry to the touch, but you need to leave it long enough for it to dry the center of the board.
 

woolybug25

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One month. I built it June 1st. I do not under stand where you're getting 1 week from.

Enjoy your free time belly aching over other online peoplea stuff. I have shit to do.

I meant one week from now, try to keep up... He told you six months. You're doing it in one month. What's not to get?

I'm not belly-aching. Just laughing at your silliness. Have you taken any advice that you've asked for in this thread yet?
 

woolybug25

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Putting the Pulley back in won't be the problem.

I did a test run at threading the new belt on, and I used a zip tie to keep it in on the Pulley as I rotated the belt on. The problem is that once it takes so much tension, it either jumps off of the Pulley or slips off of the motor.

It's such as an easy thing and I just can't keep the belt on track. It's infuriating haha.

That pulley should bend. Are you bending that pulley when you run the belt over the drum?
 

Irish#1

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I meant one week from now, try to keep up... He told you six months. You're doing it in one month. What's not to get?

I'm not belly-aching. Just laughing at your silliness. Have you taken any advice that you've asked for in this thread yet?

You seem to forget that kids are impatient.
 

IrishLion

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That pulley should bend. Are you bending that pulley when you run the belt over the drum?

I'm not sure what you mean...

Here's what I'm attempting tonight (after I replace the Pulley itself, which I'm not too worried about).

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9qpUhb1zBYs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

woolybug25

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I'm not sure what you mean...

Here's what I'm attempting tonight (after I replace the Pulley itself, which I'm not too worried about).

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9qpUhb1zBYs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Is your dryer a top load like this one?

What I was saying is most dryers have the pulley on a joint so you can stretch it for when you put a belt on it. You can put the belt around the barrel (front load) and stretch the pulley so you can get it on that. Then the pulley just snaps back into place creating the tension.
 

IrishLion

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Is your dryer a top load like this one?

What I was saying is most dryers have the pulley on a joint so you can stretch it for when you put a belt on it. You can put the belt around the barrel (front load) and stretch the pulley so you can get it on that. Then the pulley just snaps back into place creating the tension.

It's a top-load washer, not a dryer.

The belt has to thread around the drive pulley that is underneath the drum, and also around the small motor up front.

I just can't get my belt to stay on the drive pulley as I rotate it on. I know what I'm doing, it's just much more frustrating than the video experts make it seem (duh).
 

Irish#1

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It's a top-load washer, not a dryer.

The belt has to thread around the drive pulley that is underneath the drum, and also around the small motor up front.

I just can't get my belt to stay on the drive pulley as I rotate it on. I know what I'm doing, it's just much more frustrating than the video experts make it seem (duh).

I know that feeling. My wife watches those damn things then says, "All you have to do is...."
 

dshans

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I know that feeling. My wife watches those damn things then says, "All you have to do is...."

Been there, done that.

The now very ex-wife's take on things was "Make more money so we can hire someone or buy a new _____."

What she never quite understood was the sense of accomplishment I felt when I'd learned something new and conquered the machine.

On the other hand, she may have just tired of my turning the air blue with foul language at a volume level that had the neighbors cringing.

At least the damn dryer, washing machine, furnace, or garbage disposal was working again!
 

Irish YJ

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Just completed 1 of 2 toilet replacements/upgrades.....

Took a chance on a Home Depot Glacier Bay 1 piece dual flush. It was only 150ish, but got great reviews. Besides the seat being a little cheap looking (performs just fine), it works like a champ. For 150, plus a 100 dollar rebate, can't beat it with a stick for what will only be 50 bucks. All the other watersense 1 pieces were 300 and up.

I hate installing toilets, but this was about the easiest swap I've ever done. Everything included except the water line (which you don't necessarily need a new one)

2 thumbs up and I have to say it has a nice flush lol.
 

phgreek

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Just completed 1 of 2 toilet replacements/upgrades.....

Took a chance on a Home Depot Glacier Bay 1 piece dual flush. It was only 150ish, but got great reviews. Besides the seat being a little cheap looking (performs just fine), it works like a champ. For 150, plus a 100 dollar rebate, can't beat it with a stick for what will only be 50 bucks. All the other watersense 1 pieces were 300 and up.

I hate installing toilets, but this was about the easiest swap I've ever done. Everything included except the water line (which you don't necessarily need a new one)

2 thumbs up and I have to say it has a nice flush lol.

did you use wax or the new foam/rubber seal? I just redid our guest bath, and I used the new rubber seal...man that was so much less of a pain to deal with...for future reference.
 
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