Projects/Home Improvement Thread

[woolybug25]

Advice on staining a new deck with pressure treated wood?

I see there are a ton of options. Transparent and waterproof (dont want transparent cause treated by itself looks bad), toners, semi transparent stain, semi solid stain, solid color stain, restoration coatings.

After transparent and water proof, they all start to sound the same. i'd like it a color like the below, but more concerned with protecting the wood. Any first time advice?

https://www.google.com/search?q=dec...hVGMFIKHbqwATYQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=G7a6DJQP1xnjrM:

I don't get it. Are you asking us to pick a color for you? For real?

Screw stain. Get water colors and paint it gold.

 

[Irish Insanity]

Make sure your contractor doesn't buy their lumber from Menards. It's third rate compared to Home Depot. Lowes is a little better, then Menards. A true lumber yard is typically the best place to buy lumber. You get what you pay for.

This

He did the design with Menards and printed out an itemized list of every item needed. He's also building it with me, I told him I want to help to see how it's done.

I'm getting it at Menards. Home Depot is out of my budget for this project as it pushes the price a few hundred dollars as I'm getting a 31% discount at Menards from ordering from the contractor's friend who works there.

A few things. The extra you pay for Home Depot lumber is definitely worth it and you will notice a difference down the road. Also what a lot of people don't know is that Home Depot has 'sales reps'. If your guy is a legit contractor he can contact them with a list of his needs and they'll actually bid on the lot as a whole. Considerably cheaper than pricing each and calculating it. Often delivered too. Menards will also do something similar if you go to the contractor's desk and ask for a bulk buy deviation.

Also, ensure you seal every cut and screw hole on your boards. It'll last much longer.

 

[koonja]

I don't get it. Are you asking us to pick a color for you? For real?

Screw stain. Get water colors and paint it gold.

Lol no, but I'm trying to understand the difference between semi-transparent and semi-solid, and if there's anything to watch out for. If all is fair game and matter of preference, I'm good.

 

[woolybug25]

Lol no, but I'm trying to understand the difference between semi-transparent and semi-solid, and if there's anything to watch out for. If all is fair game and matter of preference, I'm good.

Ha. I guess it just depends on the finish you want. Solid stains are going to look painted. I personally don't like the look (especially when it chips), but a clear finish looks fine after time. The green eventually fades as the wood weathers.

I usually use a semi transparent color myself.

 

[Wild Bill]

Isn't that a pretty pricey option for a rental?

Yeah, it's not cheap. There are two different types - the interlocking stuff is about $2.50 per square foot the type that adhere to each other which run about $1.60.

Of course I would prefer something cheaper but it's in a kitchen and near an exterior door so I want something durable and water resistant so it's not an issue going forward.

I was going to lay some ceramic that'll cost me about $1.00/square foot. Not a bad savings but it's more labor intensive and it'll take me two days b/c of grout where this product will only take about half a day to finish.

I'd only consider the cheaper self adhering planks b/c of price but I'm a little skeptical about the durability. Reviews seem to be good but was wondering if anyone on the board has a different opinion.

 

[koonja]

Australian Timber Oil - anyone have experience using that over the traditional semi-transparents for a deck?

 

[woolybug25]

Yeah, it's not cheap. There are two different types - the interlocking stuff is about $2.50 per square foot the type that adhere to each other which run about $1.60.

Of course I would prefer something cheaper but it's in a kitchen and near an exterior door so I want something durable and water resistant so it's not an issue going forward.

I was going to lay some ceramic that'll cost me about $1.00/square foot. Not a bad savings but it's more labor intensive and it'll take me two days b/c of grout where this product will only take about half a day to finish.

I'd only consider the cheaper self adhering planks b/c of price but I'm a little skeptical about the durability. Reviews seem to be good but was wondering if anyone on the board has a different opinion.

Yeah, that's too pricey for my rentals. I've experimented with using higher grade finishes in hopes of getting better ROI through them lasting longer. I get burnt every time. Tenants will find a way to destroy flooring regardless of material. I usually get single families with kids. Which may be worse then pets actually.

I think materials vary with market though. I suppose some markets require nice materials in order to attract tenants. Mine isn't like that and nicer floors wouldn't allow me to charge more, as I'm top of the market already.

 

[BleedBlueGold]

I laughed today while at Lowes and came across the treated lumber. I picked up some 2x6's for a dock ladder project. This is treated for weather. Why is it green? Is that bad? What's pressure treated? Grabbed stainless screws. Couldn't believe I bought material for a project without consulting every decision with IE.

 

[koonja]

For the deck, going with Cabot Gold Sunlit Walnut Satin stain. Really like the semi-darker glossy finish. Will probably be complete in a couple of weeks depending on how quickly the wood dries. I'll let you guys know what I think of the stain and try to post a deck pic (hah).

 

[koonja]

10 by 16 with 48 inch railing, almost finished.

Total materials, 1,100. Total labor, 570.

 

[IrishLion]

Why are you hiding behind a tree

 

[GowerND11]

Why are you hiding behind a tree

Contractor is on Koon's All Abs Team. Doesn't know Koon took off work to catch a glimpse.

 

[wizards8507]

Does anyone have any experience stripping wood paneling? We're looking at a bigger house and want to know how much we'd be biting off if we considered a house that needed paneling to come down.

 

[Wild Bill]

Does anyone have any experience stripping wood paneling? We're looking at a bigger house and want to know how much we'd be biting off if we considered a house that needed paneling to come down.

There are a few things to consider. You may have to remove baseboards and casing to remove the paneling. That's going to increase the cost, especially if you replace trim instead of reusing the existing material. That's run about $1.00-$3.00 a linear foot for material. You have to properly recess all the plugs and switches after the paneling is removed. There are minimal material costs but labor isn't cheap if you hire an electrician. The condition of the drywall or plaster underneath is the real unknown. You may have to re-sheet the entire place or have someone skim coat the existing walls. Paint is relatively inexpensive if you do it yourself but still a cost to consider.

 

[Monk]

My wife would like to have our cabinets painted. We received two prices to do the project. The first was $2500 to remove the doors, use a de-glosser, lightly sand, and paint (exterior and interior). The second was $600 and they would not remove the doors. The second would use de-glosser, briefly sand, and paint. My wife did not clarify with the second company if they would be painting both interior and exterior, lets assume another $500 to do the interior. Both companies will use an enamel to paint the cabinets.

My kitchen has roughly 30 LF of top and bottom cabinetry.

So first contractor is at $2500 (which I will not pay to have my cabinets painted)

Second contractor is at $1100

My Questions:

1. Are the steps they are quoting the appropriate methods to paint cabinets?
2. How important is sanding if they are using a de-glosser to remove the existing finish?
3. Should they have to remove the doors to do the job correctly?
4. Without seeing my kitchen, what is an appropriate price for this kind of work?

On a side note the second contractor listed the de-glosser they will use as well as the enamel (Benjamin Moore) and I believe these to be the proper product to use.

 

[koonja]

Do you guys like my nice big deck

 

[Monk]

Do you guys like my nice big deck

Looks good so far. I think I would have considered spraying as many pieces as possible prior to installing it, but it looks good. Hard to see any supports under it.

 

[koonja]

Looks good so far. I think I would have considered spraying as many pieces as possible prior to installing it, but it looks good. Hard to see any supports under it.

I just wanted to make the d!ck joke. It's pressure treated and I have to let it dry out over the summer, so I couldn't have stained it. It has 6 post footings.

 

[calvegas04]

My wife would like to have our cabinets painted. We received two prices to do the project. The first was $2500 to remove the doors, use a de-glosser, lightly sand, and paint (exterior and interior). The second was $600 and they would not remove the doors. The second would use de-glosser, briefly sand, and paint. My wife did not clarify with the second company if they would be painting both interior and exterior, lets assume another $500 to do the interior. Both companies will use an enamel to paint the cabinets.

My kitchen has roughly 30 LF of top and bottom cabinetry.

So first contractor is at $2500 (which I will not pay to have my cabinets painted)

Second contractor is at $1100

My Questions:

1. Are the steps they are quoting the appropriate methods to paint cabinets?
2. How important is sanding if they are using a de-glosser to remove the existing finish?
3. Should they have to remove the doors to do the job correctly?
4. Without seeing my kitchen, what is an appropriate price for this kind of work?

On a side note the second contractor listed the de-glosser they will use as well as the enamel (Benjamin Moore) and I believe these to be the proper product to use.

do it your self, my wife and I did ours and we had no experience cost about $100

 

[Monk]

do it your self, my wife and I did ours and we had no experience cost about $100

What did you use to strip the existing finish and did you remove the doors and sand or just de-gloss? How well has it held up so far?

 

[calvegas04]

What did you use to strip the existing finish and did you remove the doors and sand or just de-gloss? How well has it held up so far?

We used this kit, comes with everything you need. Took two days 1 day to remove them and primer them, day two paint and hang them back up. We painted ours white and it is holding up very well.
Shop Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations Light Base Satin Cabinet Resurfacing Kit (Actual Net Contents: 137-fl oz) at Lowes.com

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/sFr4toEwhmM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Irish#1]

My wife would like to have our cabinets painted. We received two prices to do the project. The first was $2500 to remove the doors, use a de-glosser, lightly sand, and paint (exterior and interior). The second was $600 and they would not remove the doors. The second would use de-glosser, briefly sand, and paint. My wife did not clarify with the second company if they would be painting both interior and exterior, lets assume another $500 to do the interior. Both companies will use an enamel to paint the cabinets.

My kitchen has roughly 30 LF of top and bottom cabinetry.

So first contractor is at $2500 (which I will not pay to have my cabinets painted)

Second contractor is at $1100

My Questions:

1. Are the steps they are quoting the appropriate methods to paint cabinets?
2. How important is sanding if they are using a de-glosser to remove the existing finish?
3. Should they have to remove the doors to do the job correctly?
4. Without seeing my kitchen, what is an appropriate price for this kind of work?

On a side note the second contractor listed the de-glosser they will use as well as the enamel (Benjamin Moore) and I believe these to be the proper product to use.

Consider doing it yourself. We painted the cabinets in our old house and in the RV and it was a fairly easy job. Just number the doors and the hardware before you pull them. Makes it much easier when putting it back. If they are quoting doing the project with the doors still up, are you having them paint the hinges and handles at the same time? It's tough to mask off hinges and get a good look.

 

[Irish#1]

Anyone have experience with vinyl plank flooring?

I have to lay a kitchen floor for a rental and it's supposed to be really durable. Installation is easy too.

Just finished our RV with vinyl plank. The carpet was old and worn. With an RV there were all kinds of crazy nooks and crannies so I had to make quite a few weird cuts, but it cuts easy with a razor. Just buy enough razors to keep using a sharp one. Will go much easier. I also had a couple of places I used scissors to get the rounded cut.

 

[Irish#1]

He did the design with Menards and printed out an itemized list of every item needed. He's also building it with me, I told him I want to help to see how it's done.

I'm getting it at Menards. Home Depot is out of my budget for this project as it pushes the price a few hundred dollars as I'm getting a 31% discount at Menards from ordering from the contractor's friend who works there.

I swear to God Koon! Seems like you always ask for advice then ignore it. It's like I'm raising another kid.

We're screwing everything.

Keep the dogs and cats in the house!

 

[Monk]

Consider doing it yourself. We painted the cabinets in our old house and in the RV and it was a fairly easy job. Just number the doors and the hardware before you pull them. Makes it much easier when putting it back. If they are quoting doing the project with the doors still up, are you having them paint the hinges and handles at the same time? It's tough to mask off hinges and get a good look.

They both are going to remove the hardware, but I did not think about painting around the hinges. That is a great point. This seems way to easy to not do it myself.

 

[koonja]

They were originally only giving the rock away, but I talked them into also selling the bricks for $100 total. Going to measure this tonight to see if it'll take my deck to the sidewalk, and if so, going to pick up tonight.

Free Landscape Rock

This seems like a steal that will save me ~$1,000.

 

[Rack Em]

They both are going to remove the hardware, but I did not think about painting around the hinges. That is a great point. This seems way to easy to not do it myself.

Couple of things to consider:

- What type of wood are the cabinets? If you have oak, then you have to sand like hell and use a wood filler if you don't want the wood grain to show. Oak has deep grain patterns so if you want a clean look, you'll need to spend time/money to give it that.

- Taking the doors off might be a pain, but you'll get a more even paint distribution if you take them off and use a sprayer in your garage. Plus, you'll eliminate some of the fumes in your kitchen.

 

[Irish#1]

They both are going to remove the hardware, but I did not think about painting around the hinges. That is a great point. This seems way to easy to not do it myself.

It is easy to do. Never did it or watched someone prior to the first time about 5 years ago. Then did the cabinets in the RV last year.

As I mentioned, just numbers the doors and the hardware to each door. It's not the end of the world if you don't, but all the hinges, screw holes, etc. lined up a lot easier if you do.

 

[GowerND11]

Does anyone have any experience stripping wood paneling? We're looking at a bigger house and want to know how much we'd be biting off if we considered a house that needed paneling to come down.

There are a few things to consider. You may have to remove baseboards and casing to remove the paneling. That's going to increase the cost, especially if you replace trim instead of reusing the existing material. That's run about $1.00-$3.00 a linear foot for material. You have to properly recess all the plugs and switches after the paneling is removed. There are minimal material costs but labor isn't cheap if you hire an electrician. The condition of the drywall or plaster underneath is the real unknown. You may have to re-sheet the entire place or have someone skim coat the existing walls. Paint is relatively inexpensive if you do it yourself but still a cost to consider.

Going off what Wild Bill said, my family has always said this about paneling: "If you think the paneling looks bad, wait until you see what's behind it." Typically there isn't much of anything worth having behind it, that's why it was put up in the first place. Odds are you'll need all new drywall or resheet (As Wild Bill said) once it's removed.

 

[Irish#1]

Going off what Wild Bill said, my family has always said this about paneling: "If you think the paneling looks bad, wait until you see what's behind it." Typically there isn't much of anything worth having behind it, that's why it was put up in the first place. Odds are you'll need all new drywall or resheet (As Wild Bill said) once it's removed.

You never know with paneling. It was all the rage back in the 70's and early 80's. If they put it up with glue and nails, be prepared to do some damage repair. The glue will rip up the drywall.