Projects/Home Improvement Thread

[Cackalacky2.0]

This is exactly the concern some people have raised. I really have no choice other than an Ibeam or LVL with a 30 foot span. The only other option is to split the distance with a beam but that doesn't fit Mrs. Wild Bill's "vision".

Thanks for the advice, Cack.

As long as its inside or at least detailed to prevent air/moisture/humidity or leaks onto it you should be able to use it no problems.

 

[Trait Expectations]

I hadn't heard of LVL beams. I've done a little bit of work on a home we sold and we were sistering 2x12s, 3 wide to cover a 24' span. Of course, this was in a humid 'mechanical' basement that had adjoining crawlspaces connected to it. I'll have to read about how LVL beams are created, can't see how they can be stronger than timber but I'm surprised every day.

 

[Cackalacky2.0]

I hadn't heard of LVL beams. I've done a little bit of work on a home we sold and we were sistering 2x12s, 3 wide to cover a 24' span. Of course, this was in a humid 'mechanical' basement that had adjoining crawlspaces connected to it. I'll have to read about how LVL beams are created, can't see how they can be stronger than timber but I'm surprised every day.

The wood grain direction is really a huge variable in conventional lumber and its material properties and strength vary on several factors but mostly on the grain direction and and it what direction the load is applied realtive to the grain. Wood is strongest when load is applied parallel to the grain and parallel to the deeper dimenison so depending on your use you typically want a beam to be deep in the direction of the loading and with the grain parallel. With conventional wood this is not always 100% the case along the length of the member. LVL takes the grain direction and normalizes it along the length of a member and homogenizes it so the same strength and section properties occur along the whole length. There are no knots, loss of sections, wierd grain pattern changes etc. There are also significnat differences in the species of tree and their mechanical properties. Pre-engineered beams can be made to order to suit whatever you need wher eas conventional wood is based on the species and a whole lot of other factors you have to consider. I am very used to using Southern Yellow pine but if I had to use cedar or spruce I'd have to spend time becoming familiar with their properties.

The propblem is that LVL are glued and pressed together so sometimes there are failures in this part of the process. LVLs can be up to 2.5 x stronger than a conventional lumber of similar size though so its more bang for your buck especially if space is limited.


Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL)
LVL is a widely used structural composite lumber product. It is produced by bonding thin wood veneers together in a large billet so that the grain of all veneers is parallel to the long direction. The LVL billet is then sawn to desired dimensions depending on the end-use application. Because LVL is made with scarfed or lapped jointed veneers, LVL is available in lengths far beyond conventional lumber lengths.

Popular LVL applications include headers and beams, hip and valley rafters, scaffold planking, and the flange material for prefabricated wood I-joists.

 

[Irish#1]

The wood grain direction is really a huge variable in conventional lumber and its material properties and strength vary on several factors but mostly on the grain direction and and it what direction the load is applied realtive to the grain. Wood is strongest when load is applied parallel to the grain and parallel to the deeper dimenison so depending on your use you typically want a beam to be deep in the direction of the loading and with the grain parallel. With conventional wood this is not always 100% the case along the length of the member. LVL takes the grain direction and normalizes it along the length of a member and homogenizes it so the same strength and section properties occur along the whole length. There are no knots, loss of sections, wierd grain pattern changes etc. There are also significnat differences in the species of tree and their mechanical properties. Pre-engineered beams can be made to order to suit whatever you need wher eas conventional wood is based on the species and a whole lot of other factors you have to consider. I am very used to using Southern Yellow pine but if I had to use cedar or spruce I'd have to spend time becoming familiar with their properties.

The propblem is that LVL are glued and pressed together so sometimes there are failures in this part of the process. LVLs can be up to 2.5 x stronger than a conventional lumber of similar size though so its more bang for your buck especially if space is limited.


Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL)
LVL is a widely used structural composite lumber product. It is produced by bonding thin wood veneers together in a large billet so that the grain of all veneers is parallel to the long direction. The LVL billet is then sawn to desired dimensions depending on the end-use application. Because LVL is made with scarfed or lapped jointed veneers, LVL is available in lengths far beyond conventional lumber lengths.

Popular LVL applications include headers and beams, hip and valley rafters, scaffold planking, and the flange material for prefabricated wood I-joists.

Good info Cack.

We're rehabbing a Victorian style home built in 1883. It was built with native timber (pretty much all yellow pine). Some stud boards still had bark on them. That stuff is hard as a rock. Even bent some of the nails when using a framing nailer. lol

 

[Cackalacky2.0]

Good info Cack.

We're rehabbing a Victorian style home built in 1883. It was built with native timber (pretty much all yellow pine). Some stud boards still had bark on them. That stuff is hard as a rock. Even bent some of the nails when using a framing nailer. lol

Yeah that shit is crazy. We always joke about how old stuff built before building codes still holds up even when our best math models say it shouldnt work.The old mass timber is some good material.

 

[Irish#1]

Yeah that shit is crazy. We always joke about how old stuff built before building codes still holds up even when our best math models say it shouldnt work.The old mass timber is some good material.

Closets in that house were very small and only about 14" / 15" deep, so I tore out the front of them and rebuilt them to give them more depth. Instead of using the original studs, I used new ones and am using the old ones for the fireplace mantel in our primary home.

 

[Trait Expectations]

The wood grain direction is really a huge variable in conventional lumber and its material properties and strength vary on several factors but mostly on the grain direction and and it what direction the load is applied realtive to the grain. Wood is strongest when load is applied parallel to the grain and parallel to the deeper dimenison so depending on your use you typically want a beam to be deep in the direction of the loading and with the grain parallel. With conventional wood this is not always 100% the case along the length of the member. LVL takes the grain direction and normalizes it along the length of a member and homogenizes it so the same strength and section properties occur along the whole length. There are no knots, loss of sections, wierd grain pattern changes etc. There are also significnat differences in the species of tree and their mechanical properties. Pre-engineered beams can be made to order to suit whatever you need wher eas conventional wood is based on the species and a whole lot of other factors you have to consider. I am very used to using Southern Yellow pine but if I had to use cedar or spruce I'd have to spend time becoming familiar with their properties.

The propblem is that LVL are glued and pressed together so sometimes there are failures in this part of the process. LVLs can be up to 2.5 x stronger than a conventional lumber of similar size though so its more bang for your buck especially if space is limited.


Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL)
LVL is a widely used structural composite lumber product. It is produced by bonding thin wood veneers together in a large billet so that the grain of all veneers is parallel to the long direction. The LVL billet is then sawn to desired dimensions depending on the end-use application. Because LVL is made with scarfed or lapped jointed veneers, LVL is available in lengths far beyond conventional lumber lengths.

Popular LVL applications include headers and beams, hip and valley rafters, scaffold planking, and the flange material for prefabricated wood I-joists.

Yeah good info. I work with wood often so I'm very well aware of the orientation of the "straws" in timber aka - grain direction. I'm also used to looking up how values change for a given species....compare Lignum Vitae (phenomenal stuff) to White oak to white pine. The LVL stuff is new to me and I could see some applications for it but it likely won't be in my home because I like to leave timbers exposed when possible and I value natural products that don't require massive carbon inputs in creation/transportation.

This is more of a philosophical argument, but I'm sure the LVL products work as designed. I rather like the imperfections in raw timber as well. Hewing or having a 6x6 or larger timber cut is a beautiful process and the design can capture and make use of the natural curves to resist downward force (parallel to the grain).

All this to say, thanks for the info and making me aware of another product that may offer value at some point in my life. The length of LVL is where it shines, although delivery costs might eat away at the weekend warrior types?

 

[Henges24]

My exhaust fan/blower on top of my water heater has began to rattle after a piece on the inside broke off.

The water heater is about 15 years old so I am not able to find the exact same replacement blower anywhere online.
The fan is not the same brand as my WH itself but to my knowledge came/sold with the WH.

Does anyone know if I'd be OK with choosing a different brand fan to replacement the existing fan as long as the specs/hook ups match?
I'm trying to avoid having to buy a new water heater if I can.

I do not dabble with water heaters so I am taking whatever precaution I can. Thanks in advance.

 

[ab2cmiller]

My exhaust fan/blower on top of my water heater has began to rattle after a piece on the inside broke off.

The water heater is about 15 years old so I am not able to find the exact same replacement blower anywhere online.
The fan is not the same brand as my WH itself but to my knowledge came/sold with the WH.

Does anyone know if I'd be OK with choosing a different brand fan to replacement the existing fan as long as the specs/hook ups match?
I'm trying to avoid having to buy a new water heater if I can.

I do not dabble with water heaters so I am taking whatever precaution I can. Thanks in advance.

15 year old water heater, you are living on borrowed time. Just replace it.

 

[Henges24]

15 year old water heater, you are living on borrowed time. Just replace it.

That is what I was thinking too. However, everyone that I had spoke to has 20+ year old water heaters.

Figured I could get a couple more years out of her.

 

[ab2cmiller]

That is what I was thinking too. However, everyone that I had spoke to has 20+ year old water heaters.

Figured I could get a couple more years out of her.

Most popular hits on Google was a top end of 12 to 13 years.

 

[dad4aa]

My exhaust fan/blower on top of my water heater has began to rattle after a piece on the inside broke off.

The water heater is about 15 years old so I am not able to find the exact same replacement blower anywhere online.
The fan is not the same brand as my WH itself but to my knowledge came/sold with the WH.

Does anyone know if I'd be OK with choosing a different brand fan to replacement the existing fan as long as the specs/hook ups match?
I'm trying to avoid having to buy a new water heater if I can.

I do not dabble with water heaters so I am taking whatever precaution I can. Thanks in advance.

I was able to do this and extend my water heater another two years. Not sure if I was just lucky or if it was a good move. Replaced the water heater this past spring. Furnace and AC getting replaced now but they are 18 years old and the original ones from when we built the house in 2003.

 

[Wild Bill]

That is what I was thinking too. However, everyone that I had spoke to has 20+ year old water heaters.

Figured I could get a couple more years out of her.

Even if you get a couple more years might not be worth the headache and a new water heater will be much more efficient.

 

[Irish#1]

Even if you get a couple more years might not be worth the headache and a new water heater will be much more efficient.

Wild Bill is right. What you spend for a fan is money thrown away if you only get a year or two out of it. With the new couplers it’s a piece of cake to change the WH out. Get the savings with the efficiency of a new unit.

 

[NDFAN420]

Is the tank damaged, rusty, corroded in any way or is the fan the only issue?

 

[Henges24]

Is the tank damaged, rusty, corroded in any way or is the fan the only issue?

The fan is the only issue. Zero other problems other than this.

 

[Irish#1]

The fan is the only issue. Zero other problems other than this.

You can never tell about the inside though. It could have a large buildup of scale or rust given the number of years.

 

[Cackalacky2.0]

You can never tell about the inside though. It could have a large buildup of scale or rust given the number of years.

This is true. My water heater doesnt have a fan associated with it but I regularly empty and flush my water heater tanks like every 3 years or so. I got a cheap one 18 years ago and its just now getting to the point that it needs to be outright replaced.

 

[NDohio]

Tankless baby - it's the way to go...

 

[GowerND11]

Has anyone put in a vinyl fence? The people we bought our house from put up a very ugly wooden fence that is too high, and already falling apart. Looking to see if there any pros and cons to a vinyl fence.

 

[Henges24]

You can never tell about the inside though. It could have a large buildup of scale or rust given the number of years.

It was just drained out and refilled last year. I cannot see the inside, you’re right, but again, no issues other than the fan.

I just need to know if putting on a similar fan (not exact same) would be OK.
I’m willing to spend the < $200 if I can get another 2-5 years out of it, which seems highly likely, given it’s current performance.

 

[Wild Bill]

Tankless baby - it's the way to go...

For the most part, yes. There are some scenarios where you wouldn't want tankless. Upfront costs are obvious so if you don't plan on staying at the home, don't but it If you're using water all over the place you won't get consistent temps. They're relatively inefficient when it comes to certain applications. There are some other issues with them but certainly some benefits too.

Has anyone put in a vinyl fence? The people we bought our house from put up a very ugly wooden fence that is too high, and already falling apart. Looking to see if there any pros and cons to a vinyl fence.

Low maintenance is the pro. The cost is much more and you always get grass stains on them. Nearly impossible and it would drive me nuts.

If you have a large yard with trees, I'd go with cedar. More natural looking and pleasant imo. If it's more urban the vinyl looks less out of place.

 

[Wild Bill]

It was just drained out and refilled last year. I cannot see the inside, you’re right, but again, no issues other than the fan.

I just need to know if putting on a similar fan (not exact same) would be OK.
I’m willing to spend the < $200 if I can get another 2-5 years out of it, which seems highly likely, given it’s current performance.

Get me the brand and I'll ask my brother. He's a union plumber and basically a shit wizard.

 

[NDFAN420]

shit wizard.

This is my new favorite two-word phrase.

 

[Irish#1]

It was just drained out and refilled last year. I cannot see the inside, you’re right, but again, no issues other than the fan.

I just need to know if putting on a similar fan (not exact same) would be OK.
I’m willing to spend the < $200 if I can get another 2-5 years out of it, which seems highly likely, given it’s current performance.

I don't know why you couldn't use a different fan. You just want to make sure the electrical specs are close to the original. Too small and it may run more than usual. Too large and it uses more power than needed. Also not sure what wire has been run to the WH 12-2 or 14-2? If it's a smaller gauge than those and the fan is too large it could cause overheating and a possible fire.

 

[Irish#1]

This is my new favorite two-word phrase.

Yeah, I'm liking shit wizard.

 

[Irish#1]

For the most part, yes. There are some scenarios where you wouldn't want tankless. Upfront costs are obvious so if you don't plan on staying at the home, don't but it If you're using water all over the place you won't get consistent temps. They're relatively inefficient when it comes to certain applications. There are some other issues with them but certainly some benefits too.




Low maintenance is the pro. The cost is much more and you always get grass stains on them. Nearly impossible and it would drive me nuts.

If you have a large yard with trees, I'd go with cedar. More natural looking and pleasant imo. If it's more urban the vinyl looks less out of place.

Agree with Wild Bill. We put up some cedar privacy about 20 years ago and it's stood the test of time. About five years ago, I pressure washed it and it looked brand new when I was done.

 

[GowerND11]

For the most part, yes. There are some scenarios where you wouldn't want tankless. Upfront costs are obvious so if you don't plan on staying at the home, don't but it If you're using water all over the place you won't get consistent temps. They're relatively inefficient when it comes to certain applications. There are some other issues with them but certainly some benefits too.




Low maintenance is the pro. The cost is much more and you always get grass stains on them. Nearly impossible and it would drive me nuts.

If you have a large yard with trees, I'd go with cedar. More natural looking and pleasant imo. If it's more urban the vinyl looks less out of place.

Agree with Wild Bill. We put up some cedar privacy about 20 years ago and it's stood the test of time. About five years ago, I pressure washed it and it looked brand new when I was done.

Thanks guys! I'm pretty sure the front yard fence is cedar, and it looks good/holding up well. The backyard fence, meanwhile, looks like it was just a bunch of 1 by 3s thrown up. Might look into doing cedar all the way.

 

[ab2cmiller]

It was just drained out and refilled last year. I cannot see the inside, you’re right, but again, no issues other than the fan.

I just need to know if putting on a similar fan (not exact same) would be OK.
I’m willing to spend the < $200 if I can get another 2-5 years out of it, which seems highly likely, given it’s current performance.

Have no idea how you could say that getting another 2-5 years seems highly likely given it's current performance. A water heater is fine until it isn't fine. There is literally no way to tell. It may work another 5 years and it may fail tomorrow. All I know is that you are already outside the typical lifespan. I had an 8 year old water heater fail last year. Did I expect it to last 12, sure. In the days leading up to the failure, given it's current performance, I certainly expected it too.

If you are thinking about going tankless, it's certainly more feasible when you are not in an emergency situation where you need it done ASAP. From Consumer Reports
https://www.consumerreports.org/wat...rs-vs-storage-tank-water-heaters-a5291982593/

Switching to tankless from a storage tank water heater is no easy swap because it requires a plumbing retrofit and possibly an upgrade to your electric service or gas lines to increase capacity. Considering that 90 percent of hot water heater installations take place during an emergency, according to the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, that puts you at a disadvantage when you're negotiating with a prospective plumber or contractor to make the switch on your tight timeline.

 

[Irish#1]

Have no idea how you could say that getting another 2-5 years seems highly likely given it's current performance. A water heater is fine until it isn't fine. There is literally no way to tell. It may work another 5 years and it may fail tomorrow. All I know is that you are already outside the typical lifespan. I had an 8 year old water heater fail last year. Did I expect it to last 12, sure. In the days leading up to the failure, given it's current performance, I certainly expected it too.

If you are thinking about going tankless, it's certainly more feasible when you are not in an emergency situation where you need it done ASAP. From Consumer Reports
https://www.consumerreports.org/wat...rs-vs-storage-tank-water-heaters-a5291982593/

I had to laugh at this. How many people buy a water heater before the old one dies? It's always an emergency, right? lol